When we first arrived in Vero Beach more than two decades ago, the venerable Ocean Grill had narrowly survived the Thanksgiving Storm of 1984. Having fought off the seas, it had rebuilt and was back in action as the best of the restaurants then in operation on Vero’s barrier island.

Today, almost a quarter of a century later, the Ocean Grill is still very much alive and still drawing crowds for dinner. But it now is fighting to remain in the top tier of island restaurants in the face of challenges from some formidable new competitors on the Vero beachside dining scene.

On the recent midweek night that we dined at the Ocean Grill, we were told there would be a 25-to-35 minute wait – which is pretty much par for the course for one or two couples, since the Ocean Grill only accepts reservations for parties of five or more.

For those so-inclined, there is an ocean-front bar (frequently quite crowded) where one can have a drink while waiting. On this night, there was time for two drinks because the wait turned out to be closer to 50 minutes.

But when we finally were called, we were taken to a table directly in front of a window, offering the best view of the ocean to be found in any restaurant in Vero Beach.

While many things have remained constant at the Ocean Grill over the years, there have been a number of subtle changes. The cheese dip – which has always been available for snacking while you peruse the menu – is now a lighter, tastier mix.

For appetizers, we started with a bowl of steamed clams ($10.95) and a cup of New England clam chowder ($3.95). While the chowder was a bland blend that failed to impress the New Englander at the table, the steamed clams in a lemon and wine sauce provided a very tasty start to the meal.

The house salad, a romaine based mix, was adequate. Choosing a main course at the Ocean Grill is always a challenge. The restaurant is known, of course, for its fresh local seafood. But I always am tempted by (and often have ordered) their roast Wisconsin duckling ($24.95), which ranks with the best you will find anywhere in the country.

Ultimately, I chose the Scampi Maison ($20.95) – one of the staples on the Ocean Grill menu -- featuring a half-dozen shrimp baked in butter with herbs and garlic and served in a mustard sauce. The shrimp were cooked perfectly and very tasty. I also tried the baked sweet potato, which makes a great substitute for the traditional baked potato.

My companion ordered one of the three daily fresh local seafood specials – his choice a yellow-fin tuna ($23.95) – which was seared to perfection.

On this night, we were too full for dessert. My companion told our server (one of the best we have encountered, but always a strong-point at the Ocean Grill) that if he were to have desert, he would lie to get the famed Ocean Grill birthday cake.

The server immediately offered to bring one with no need for a fib. Dinner, including a moderately priced bottle of chardonnay and tip, came to $120.

The Ocean Grill, which in tribute to two decades of good meals seemed the only appropriate restaurant to review in this premiere column, is still very good – but probably no longer the Best on the Beach.

In coming issues, we will be reviewing a number of the other beachside restaurants – and some off-beach restaurants favored by island residents as well. I welcome your comments. Send them to tina@verobeach32963.com.

The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.